On The Road - Railroads That Is
Topic: Railfan

What better way to spend a vacation than riding trains? Once again I returned to Colorado in August, but this time I drove on past Durango and headed to Chama, New Mexico. The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic was celebrating its' 40th year of operations with special events. Plans for this anniversary got thrown a big curved ball when the Lobato trestle caught fire and suffered severe damage. The C&TS keeps coming back, but it does seem to be the Colorado tough luck tourist train. Even though they have suffered thousands of cancelled reservations trains have continued to run on a truncated route between the station at the top of Cumbres Pass and Antonito, Colorado.
I must confess to having considered cancelling my reservations. But I persisted, frequently checking the CT&S website and calling them a few times. I was not greatly reassured, however. The website carried reports on the trestle damage and revised operating schedules, but nothing appeared about changes in planned anniversry activities. This was strange considering the Lobato Trestle figured hugely in some events. Those answering my calls were not forthcoming either. But I went forward with my plans and drove into Chama after spending the night in Pagosa Springs
I entered the ticket office in the Chama station unsure of what to expect. I had reserved a spot on Goose No. 5 for that afternoon and a ride on the "working freight" for the following day. As I suspected, my rides would start at Cumbres Pass. I was told a bus would transport us from Chama to Cumbres. I was given my ticket for the Goose, but the agent said I could not have my ticket for the next day's freight train until after 2:30 PM. I pointed out my ride on the Goose started before 2:30 making it impossible for me to be on hand to get my train tickets. I was told I could pick them up the next morning before the bus departed. Okay . . . . ?
I was told the bus which would take me up to Cumbres for the Goose trip would depart at 12:30 PM and I should be there about 15 minutes early. This left time for some photography around the rail yard and for lunch. I returned to the Chama station a little before noon. A special afternoon train which was to run from Chama to Lobato was on the tracks, but no bus was in sight. I took a few more photos while I waited. When no bus was in sight by 12:15, I headed to the ticket office. On the way I encountered another gentleman headed in the same direction. He was also there to meet the 12:30 bus. However, in a conversation with one of the crewmen for the afternoon train he discovered the bus had already left!

A tense conversation ensued with ladies in the ticket office. The woman who seemed to be in charge got on the radio and contacted people at Cumbres Pass. The Goose would be departing in 15 minutes we were told and it was up to us to get there. Thanks alot! I jumped in the car with the gentleman and his wife and we raced up to Cumbres. The Goose was still there! We hustled aboard. But then another radio call from Chama was received. It seemed a family including three young children had appeared also looking for the long-departed bus. The children were in tears and the parents were frantic. Would the Goose wait? Yes, crying children do not make for favorable newspaper photos. With the family on board, the Goose was ready to get under way. But no, now we had to wait for the arrival of a train which, if things had been on schedule, we presumably would have met at a distant siding as part of the advertised "parade of trains". Once the train pulled into Cumbres the Goose finally got under way nearly an hour behind schedule.
With the wheels finally turning our troubles were behind us. It was a beautiful afternoon in Colorado's high country. We met a special train from Antonito filled with dignataries of New Mexico and Colorado state governments. And we had several run-bys with the Goose. We all returned happy to Cumbres station for a barbeque dinner.
My unpleasant experiences with C&TS failing customer service were not quite over, however. When I appeared next morning at the station in Chama to pick up my tickets for the second day's train trip, the ticket agent could not find my reservation. It was discovered after a few minutes my reservation had been left with the previous day's trip. With my reservation reinstated, I was given my ticket. I was told to wait for a bus up to Cumbres, but after my experience of the day before I was not about to have anything of that. Besides, it was early and I would have the opportunity to get some photos at Cumbres.
It was a clear, crisp morning up on Cumbres Pass and crews were busy shuttling locomotives around in preparation for the day's trains. Because this locoation was never meant to be an area for servicing locomotives, dumping ashes and the like have to be accomplished in a makeshift manner. I'm sure crews will be happy to see Lobato trestle restored and they can return to the conveniences of Chama yard. The Goose, requires no such attention to start its's day, sat quietly by the side. By the time the bus arrived from Chama, our "working freight" was ready and we embarked on a day of photo run-bys. The weather was not so kind to us after lunch as it had been in the morning. Clouds rushed in, the temperature plunged, and it rained. A couple more run-bys were done trying to dodge the raindrops, but then we high-tailed it across the sagebrush flats for Antonito.
With the exception of the second afternoon's rain and cold everything went smoothly once we hit the rails. My only disappointment there was the lack of promised switching by the "working freight train." I heard something of possible management changes for CT&S next season. Hopefully that may bring improvements in things before the trains depart. Spending this much time on the Cumbres and Toltec route and doing the photo run-bys has given me a new appreciation for the C&TS.
Previously, I have always favored the Durango & Silverton route. I have felt scenery of the D&S eclipsed that of the C&TS and I have always wondered why many people favor the Chama train over the Durango train. While the scene of peaks towering over a tiny train moving through a deep, narrow river valley is awesome, Cumbres & Toltec trains demonstrate another hallmark of Colorado narrow guage railroads. Accessing the mineral riches of the Rockies was dependent upon rails climbing mountain passes. The C&TS tracks are the last place we can see narrow guage locomotives still performing this important accomplishment.
We were met in Antonito by a bus to take everyone back to Chama. The bus driver let me off at Cumbres where I had left my car. I moved quickly to my car and headed for Alamosa where I was to spend the next two nights. In Alamosa I had a ticket for another ride on the Rio Grande Scenic train operated by the San Luis & Rio Grande Railroad. Even though I have made the trip over La Veta Pass before, including the inaugural season, it has been a couple years since my last visit and new equipment has been added. Even though it was not part of my thinking when I made my resrvation, it was fitting I would follow my ride over Cumbres Pass on narrow guage rails with a ride over La Veta Pass on standard guage rails. Even though mountain railroads follow water level routes along streams, sooner or later they will need to scale a mountainside to climb over a mountain pass. Sadly, trains no longer seek out Boreas Pass, Alpine Tunnel, nor even Tennessee Pass. But the C&TS and the SL&RG keep that tradition alive.
I learned before leaving Chama, the Rio Grand Scenic had run of special photo train while I was riding the RGS Goose. Somehow, amongst all the promotions of concert trains and the like, this event had never appeared in my email notices from Alamosa. If a photo train becomes an annual event, I will certainly want to put it on my calendar. Things have changed since my first ride in Rio Grande Scenic's opening season. That season we rode in ancient communter cars pulled by a locomotive from SL&RG's freight fleet. Because it was Sunday this summer's trip was made behind a steam locomoitve. Newer passenger cars have arrived in Alamosa, including retired full dome cars purchased from the Alaska Railroad. Additionally, you can take your photos from an vintage observation car with an open rear platform. No more competing for space for photos from the vestibule of the last coach. And more people are riding the trains requiring more cars and longer trains. Weeday trains are pulled by diesel locomotives. It looks as though it is no longer behind borrowed freight locomotives. Handsomely painted diesels were sitting in the yard. So the tourist railroad which most people thought was one tourist railroad to many and would never survive more than a couple seasons has survived. I for one am glad it has. While I remain a confirmed freelance modeler, the SL&RG plus Rio Grande Scenic would be an inspiration for my future layout choices.

Posted by The Station Master
at 12:01 AM CDT
Updated: Tuesday, 15 February 2011 8:38 PM CST